Repair guides › Brakes
Set up cantilever brakes
The older rim brake on 1980s–2000s mountain, touring and cyclocross bikes: two short arms on frame bosses, joined by a straddle wire above the tire. It squeezes pads on the rim like a V-brake. The brake cable stops at a hanger above the tire and pulls a yoke up the middle of a straddle (link) wire, which pulls both arms in. Pads are usually smooth-post, held by an eye bolt so you can set height, angle and toe. They need road-style (short-pull) levers, not V-brake levers.
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Tools
- Ball-end hex key set (1.5–10 mm): Park Tool HXS-1.2 Professional L-Shaped Hex Set ($$)
- 1/4" click torque wrench (about 2–17 Nm) + bits: Pro Bike Tool 1/4 inch drive click torque wrench set (2.2–16.9 Nm) ($$)
- 12" adjustable wrench: Crescent 12 inch adjustable wrench ($)
Compare Good, Better and Best for each tool
Steps
- Loosen the pad eye bolt. Set each pad flat on the rim, 1 mm below the top edge, toed in about 1 mm, and with the pad post sticking out the same on both sides. Tighten (about 8–9 Nm on Shimano; check your brake) holding the pad still.
- Set the straddle so the two halves make roughly a 90° angle at the yoke. A higher yoke (narrower angle) feels firmer but is weaker; a lower yoke (wider angle) is more powerful but the lever feels softer. Keep the yoke above the fork crown or brake bridge.
- Adjust the main cable at the yoke so the pads sit 2–3 mm from the rim.
- Balance the arms with the spring screws (if present) or by moving the spring end to another hole on the boss.
- Check the cable hanger (on the headset or seat clamp) is tight: a loose one causes shudder.
Torque
| Fastener | Torque |
|---|---|
| Pad eye bolt | 8–9 Nm (Shimano; check your brake) |
| Arm mounting bolt | 5–10 Nm by brand (Tektro 6–8, Shimano 8–10, SRAM/Avid 5–7) |
| Cable anchor (yoke) | 6 Nm |
Diagram
Seen from the front of the bikeFront brake
Signs it needs doing
- Squeal or shudder (pads not toed in, or a loose cable hanger)
- Lever pulls to the bar
- One pad drags (spring tension)
- Weak braking