Repair guides › Drivetrain
Remove and install cassette
The stack of rear cogs. Slides onto splines of a freehub body on the hub and is held by a lockring. The freehub has the pawls (the clicking you hear when coasting). The HG 8/9/10-speed freehub fits 8, 9 and 10-speed road/MTB cassettes, so you can upgrade speeds without new wheels.
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Tools
- Degreaser: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner ($)
- Shop rags + nitrile gloves: shop towels and nitrile gloves ($)
- Chain keeper (dummy hub): Park Tool DH-1 dummy hub ($)
- Bike grease: Park Tool PPL-1 PolyLube 1000 ($)
- Cassette lockring tool: Park Tool FR-5.2 ($)
- Chain whip: Park Tool SR-12.2 Sprocket Remover ($$)
- 12" adjustable wrench: Crescent 12 inch adjustable wrench ($)
- 3/8" click torque wrench 10–60 Nm: Pro Bike Tool 3/8 inch Drive Click Torque Wrench Set 10-60 Nm ($$$)
Compare Good, Better and Best for each tool
Steps
- Remove the rear wheel and the QR skewer.
- Fit the lockring tool into the lockring. Wrap the chain whip around a middle cog so it pulls clockwise.
- Hold the whip, push the wrench counter-clockwise. The lockring clicks loose loudly. That is normal.
- Slide cogs off, keeping them in order on a zip tie.
- Clean the freehub body; a thin layer of grease prevents creaking.
- Line up the wide spline on the new cassette with the wide groove on the freehub and slide each piece on.
- Thread the lockring by hand, then torque. Refit the wheel, close the QR firmly and check indexing.
Torque
| Fastener | Torque |
|---|---|
| Cassette lockring | 30–50 Nm (40 typical) |
Diagram
Cut in half to show the insideRear hub and cassette
Signs it needs doing
- Chain skips even with a new chain (worn cogs)
- Cogs wobble (loose lockring)
- Teeth look like shark fins