Repair guides › Drivetrain
Deep-clean the drivetrain
Transfers your pedaling to the rear wheel. It wears out first and takes the cassette and chainring with it if you wait too long. Pins and rollers wear, so the chain gets longer ("stretch"). A worn chain skips and grinds the cog teeth into hooks. Width depends on speed count: buy the one that matches your cassette. Replace at 0.75% wear for 8/9/10-speed, 0.5% for 11-speed and up.
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Tools
- Chain lube (dry + wet): Finish Line Ceramic Wax + Ceramic Wet lube ($$)
- Degreaser: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner ($)
- Shop rags + nitrile gloves: shop towels and nitrile gloves ($)
- Chain keeper (dummy hub): Park Tool DH-1 dummy hub ($)
- Cleaning brushes: bike cleaning brush set ($)
Compare Good, Better and Best for each tool
Steps
- Shift to the smallest cog and set the bike so the cranks turn freely (a stand helps).
- Brush or spray degreaser onto the chain while you pedal backward and let it soak 2–3 minutes. Keep it away from the brake rotors and pads.
- Scrub the chain on both sides with a stiff brush, then the cassette: run a brush or a strip of rag between each pair of cogs.
- Scrub the chainring teeth and both derailleur pulleys, and pick packed dirt off the pulleys with a small tool.
- Rinse gently with low-pressure water. Never aim it at the hub or bottom bracket seals.
- Dry everything with a rag and let the chain dry fully (or ride a few minutes).
- Lube the chain, one drop per roller while you pedal backward. Wait a minute, then wipe the outside of the chain clean.
Signs it needs doing
- Chain skips under hard pedaling
- Noisy, gritty drivetrain
- Stiff link that clicks once per crank turn
- Rust