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Replace rim brake pads

Skill level 2 of 4 · Tune-upReplaceBasic20 minV-brake (linear pull rim brake)

Two tall arms on the fork and stays that squeeze pads onto the rim. The cable runs through a curved "noodle" and pulls the arms together. Spring screws balance the arms.

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Tools

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Steps

  1. Check the wear line or grooves on each pad. Replace when the grooves are almost gone (about 1 mm left), or if the pad is hard, cracked or has metal bits stuck in it.
  2. Match the pad type (see the pad diagram): threaded post with a nut (V-brakes, U-brakes), smooth post with an eye bolt (cantilevers), road cartridge (holder plus slide-in insert) or short threaded road pad (side-pull calipers). Left and right pads are often marked; the closed end of a cartridge faces forward.
  3. Remove the old pad, keeping the curved washers in the same order: they let you angle the pad.
  4. Fit the new pad loosely. Squeeze the brake so it sits flat on the rim's braking surface, about 1 mm below the top edge, never touching the tire.
  5. Toe-in: the front of the pad touches the rim first, about 1 mm ahead of the back (a folded business card behind the pad's tail helps). This stops squeal.
  6. Tighten the pad nut or eye bolt (about 5–8 Nm) while holding the pad still. Re-check that it did not twist.
  7. Wipe the rims with isopropyl alcohol and reset cable tension so the lever stops well before the bar. Test both brakes before riding.

Torque

FastenerTorque
Pad nut / eye bolt5–8 Nm

Diagram

front →
Close-up of the partsRim brake pads
THREADED POSTV-brake · U-brakeSMOOTH POSTCantileverROAD CARTRIDGEDual-pivot caliperSHORT ROAD PADSide-pull caliperWashers: angleEye boltSlide-in insertRim (seen from above)Toe-in: front of the pad touches first (~1 mm)Front of bike →Salmon compound = better in the wet
Rim brake pad types

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