Repair guides › Frame & Fork
Fork straightness and mount check
Holds the front wheel and steers. Rigid forks have no suspension. Steel adds a bit of comfort and is cheap and tough. The steerer tube runs up through the head tube, held by the headset bearings. The crown spreads into two legs ending in dropouts with lawyer tabs (raised lips) that stop a loose quick release from dropping the wheel. A disc mount on the left leg holds the brake caliper.
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Tools
- Ball-end hex key set (1.5–10 mm): Park Tool HXS-1.2 Professional L-Shaped Hex Set ($$)
- 1/4" click torque wrench (about 2–17 Nm) + bits: Pro Bike Tool 1/4 inch drive click torque wrench set (2.2–16.9 Nm) ($$)
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Steps
- Stand in front of the bike and look down at the wheel between the fork legs. The gap should be equal on both sides.
- If it is not, loosen the QR, push the bike down on its front wheel so the axle seats fully, and close the QR again.
- Still off-center after reseating? The fork or dropout may be bent. Take it to a shop.
- Check the caliper mount bolts with the torque wrench.
Torque
| Fastener | Torque |
|---|---|
| Caliper mount bolts | 6–8 Nm (Shimano/Tektro) · SRAM/Avid 9.5 Nm · check the caliper |
Signs it needs doing
- Knocking when you brake hard (often the headset, not the fork)
- Front wheel sits off-center
- Rust inside the steerer
- Wheel rubs the brake after a crash (bent leg or mount)