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Repair guides › Cockpit

Install a new fork (cut the steerer)

Skill level 3 of 4 · OverhaulReplaceAdvanced1.5 hrThreadless headset (1-1/8")

The bearings that let the fork turn in the head tube. Two bearings (top and bottom) sit in cups pressed into the head tube. The stem clamps the steerer; the top cap bolt pulls the fork up to take out play (preload), then the stem bolts lock everything. Budget bikes often use caged ball bearings (EC sizing).

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Tools

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Steps

  1. Check the new fork matches the bike: steerer size and taper, axle standard, brake mount, wheel size and axle-to-crown length.
  2. Seat the crown race fully on the new fork crown with the crown race setter (no gap).
  3. Fit the fork through the head tube with the headset, spacers and stem where you want them, and mark the steerer at the top of the stem.
  4. Take the fork out. The steerer must end about 3 mm below the top of the stem (or top spacer). Measure twice, then cut slowly and square in the saw guide with a 32 TPI blade. Carbon steerers: a fine carbon blade, a dust mask, and never a pipe cutter. You can't add length back.
  5. File the cut edge smooth. Alloy or steel steerer: drive a star nut in about 15 mm below the top with the star-nut setter. Carbon steerer: use an expansion plug, never a star nut.
  6. Reassemble, set preload with the top cap, align the stem and torque its bolts. Refit the brake and wheel, and test the front brake and steering before riding.

Torque

FastenerTorque
Stem steerer bolts5–6 Nm (check stem marking)
Carbon steererusually 5 Nm max, with carbon assembly paste
Caliper mount bolts6–8 Nm (Shimano/Tektro) · SRAM/Avid 9.5 Nm · check the caliper

Diagram

front →
Taken apart, in order, side viewHead tube and stem
Top cap: sets preloadStar nut (alloy/steel steerer)Stem clamp boltsSpacerTop coverCompression ringTop bearingHead tube + cupsBottom bearingCrown raceSteerer tubeFork crownSnug the top cap first (it sets bearing preload),then tighten the stem bolts.
Threadless headset stack (exploded)

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