Repair guides › Cockpit
Replace press-in headset cups
The bearings that let the fork turn in the head tube. Two bearings (top and bottom) sit in cups pressed into the head tube. The stem clamps the steerer; the top cap bolt pulls the fork up to take out play (preload), then the stem bolts lock everything. Budget bikes often use caged ball bearings (EC sizing).
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Tools
- Ball-end hex key set (1.5–10 mm): Park Tool HXS-1.2 Professional L-Shaped Hex Set ($$)
- 1/4" click torque wrench (about 2–17 Nm) + bits: Pro Bike Tool 1/4 inch drive click torque wrench set (2.2–16.9 Nm) ($$)
- Bike grease: Park Tool PPL-1 PolyLube 1000 ($)
- Digital calipers: Clockwise Tools DCLR-0605 IP54 Digital Caliper ($$)
- Repair stand: Park Tool PCS-9.3 Home Mechanic Repair Stand ($$$$)
- Soft mallet + star-nut setter: Rubber mallet + star nut setting tool ($$)
- Headset cup press: Park Tool HHP-3 ($$$)
- Headset cup remover: Park Tool RT-1 head cup remover ($$)
- Crown race setter: Foundation crown race setting tool ($$)
Compare Good, Better and Best for each tool
Steps
- Remove the fork as in the headset service (front wheel out, brake caliper off and tied to the frame, top cap, stem and spacers off, fork down).
- Measure the head tube bore, the cups and the steerer, and order the same headset standard (for example EC34 top / EC34 bottom). Integrated (IS) headsets have no pressed cups: the bearings drop in, so no press is needed.
- Knock the old cups out from inside the head tube with the cup remover, moving it around the cup's edge between taps so the cup comes out straight.
- Clean the head tube and check it for cracks or damage.
- Lightly grease the bore (or follow the headset maker), then press both cups in at the same time with the headset press, keeping them straight, until they sit fully against the head tube with no gap. Never hammer cups in.
- Pry the old crown race off evenly and seat the new one fully on the fork crown with the crown race setter.
- Reinstall the fork, set preload with the top cap, align the stem and torque the stem bolts. Refit the brake and wheel, and test the front brake and steering before riding.
Torque
| Fastener | Torque |
|---|---|
| Stem steerer bolts | 5–6 Nm (check stem marking) |
| Caliper mount bolts | 6–8 Nm (Shimano/Tektro) · SRAM/Avid 9.5 Nm · check the caliper |
Diagram
Taken apart, in order, side viewHead tube and stem
Signs it needs doing
- Clunk felt through the bars when you hold the front brake and rock the bike
- Steering feels notchy or stuck straight ahead (worn bearings)
- Bars feel tight when turning (too much preload)