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Repair guides › Cockpit

Clean and grease headset bearings

Skill level 3 of 4 · OverhaulRepairModerate45 minThreadless headset (1-1/8")

The bearings that let the fork turn in the head tube. Two bearings (top and bottom) sit in cups pressed into the head tube. The stem clamps the steerer; the top cap bolt pulls the fork up to take out play (preload), then the stem bolts lock everything. Budget bikes often use caged ball bearings (EC sizing).

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Tools

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Steps

  1. Put the bike in a stand. Remove the front wheel. Unbolt the front caliper from the fork and zip-tie it to the frame so the cable or hose is not pulled when the fork drops out.
  2. Remove the top cap bolt and cap. Loosen the stem pinch bolts. Hold the fork so it does not drop.
  3. Slide off the stem (rest it on the top tube on a rag, cables still attached) and remove the spacers, top cover and compression ring.
  4. Lower the fork out. Note the order of every part: take a photo.
  5. Wipe old grease off the bearings, cups and crown race. Inspect: pitted races or rough-feeling bearings get replaced (measure the bearing and order the same size).
  6. Pack fresh grease into the cups and on the bearings. Re-install in reverse order.
  7. Set preload with the top cap, align the stem, torque the stem bolts.
  8. Refit the caliper (6–8 Nm), refit the wheel and close the QR, re-center the brake and test the front brake before riding.

Torque

FastenerTorque
Stem steerer bolts5–6 Nm
Caliper mount bolts6–8 Nm (Shimano/Tektro) · SRAM/Avid 9.5 Nm · check the caliper

Diagram

front →
Taken apart, in order, side viewHead tube and stem
Top cap: sets preloadStar nut (alloy/steel steerer)Stem clamp boltsSpacerTop coverCompression ringTop bearingHead tube + cupsBottom bearingCrown raceSteerer tubeFork crownSnug the top cap first (it sets bearing preload),then tighten the stem bolts.
Threadless headset stack (exploded)

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